And the closet contained a more useful steamer, along with thick robes and slippers. The for-pay refrigerator was discretely concealed in a large steamer trunk. The WC, complete with sink, had its own room away from the shower (which had a glass door that helpfully swung in both directions). The Atelier room was restful, with solid dark furnishings and charming decorative touches, very comfortable bed with plump pillows, and a huge tub right next to it. The front deskperson Rebecca was very helpful in sorting out a reservation problem, and the bellmen were gratifyingly prompt whether picking up or bringing up luggage.

The staff were superb, very helpful and professional but accessibly nice. If it's your first stay, a personalized letter of greeting awaits on the desk, along with NoMad-branded playing cards. This place takes its luxury stamp seriously - I mean where else would the key card holder be in deep red velvet? Fancy.

The NoMad in the Park MGM is a stunner, especially considering both hotels were made over from the comparatively staid-but-desperate-to-be-hip Monte Carlo.

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